Sunday, August 28, 2011

The good good kind

It is often said that pizza is like sex: even when it's bad, it's still pretty good. I can't say I'm entirely in agreement with this statement-- I've eaten a lot of pizza that was just bad; luckily I don't have too much to share as far as the other side of the comparison.

I've taken to making pizza dough the night before when I know I won't have a lot of time for lunch. In the morning, the dough comes out of the fridge and sits on the counter until midday, when it gets stretched out, topped and baked. Hot lunch in 10 min. The salad gets made while the pizza's in the oven.

Some variations I like:

Classic: Tomato sauce, mozzarella, tomato slices, basil puree 
Argentine: Fugazetta (lots of white onion very briefly sauteed with thyme, mozzarella)
Colombian: Tomato sauce, mozzarella, sweet plantain, red pepper, green onion, cilantro 
Californian: Caramelized onions, goat cheese, arugula

Some tips and unsolicited opinions:

-Sliced cheese doesn't melt as evenly as grated cheese. Make sure to grate the cheese yourself-- pre-grated cheese is tossed with cornstarch to keep it from sticking, so it doesn't melt as well.
-Some toppings are best pre-cooked-- vegetables that take a long time to soften, or that might release a lot of water, leaving them soggy. Others may just take on a deeper flavor if cooked beforehand-- sauteing corn or roasting red peppers, for example. I've never been a big fan of the big-chunked vegetable pizzas that leave you with half-cooked mushrooms and soggy green peppers (but if that's your thing, more power to you).
-The simplest tomato sauce can be made out of a glug of olive oil, tomato puree, a clove of garlic, and a pinch of red pepper flakes (just don't burn the garlic). Use less sauce than you think you need-- using too much will make the crust soggy and overwhelm the toppings.
-White (tomato sauce-less) pizza can be a really nice change; just sprinkle some olive oil over the dough before adding the toppings.
-A little salt and olive oil sprinkled on after taking the pizza out of the oven can make a huge difference
-Basil puree tastes great with everything: in the food processor (or even the blender), blend 1/4 c. olive oil with a large clove of garlic, then add a cup of basil and a pinch of salt and blend until mostly smooth. Spread it under the cheese instead of the tomato sauce, or drizzle it on top after taking the pizza out of the oven.
-Fresh herbs are great added after the pizza is taken out of the oven: basil, cilantro, arugula etc.
-Not to sound like a total hipster, but everybody likes pizza-making parties (little kids, dorky college students, hipsters, South American artists). And even people with a deep prejudice against vegetarian food will never turn down your basic cheese, tomato and basil pizza. Make the dough the day before and have the toppings prepped, and tell people to bring anything extra that they like on their pizza. Also, beer.
-Leftover pizza dough can be used to make cinnamon, or any other kind of, rolls.
-I really kind of want to make this


Pizza Dough
     adapted from Baking with Julia

For the sponge:
1 1/2 tsp. active dry yeast (make sure it's fresh; store it in the fridge)
1 1/2 c. lukewarm water
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 1/4 c. all-purpose flour (preferably unbleached)

In a large bowl, mix everything together until smooth. Cover with a dish towel and leave to double, an hour or two.

For the dough:
2+ c. flour
1 Tbsp. salt

Stir down the sponge and add the salt. Stir in the flour, a cup at a time. Add more flour little by little until you get a dough that you can knead but that is still slightly tacky. Knead for 5-10 minutes, until you have a smooth and elastic dough that springs back when you poke it. 
Add a bit of olive oil to a large bowl and place the dough in it, flipping it over so the top is lightly coated with the oil. You can cover the dough and leave it at room temperature to rise until doubled (1-2 hours) and then use it right away, or you can stick it in the fridge to use it the next day. If you are planning on making pizza the next day, cover the bowl with plastic and stick in the fridge overnight (make sure that there is room for the dough to double and the plastic won't get pushed off.) Take the dough out of the fridge a couple of hours before you are planning on making the pizza.
Preheat the oven as high as it will go-- most domestic ovens will only do about 500-600ºF, but crank it up as high as it goes and let it really get going. If you have a pizza stone, let it preheat with the oven on the lower rack, or preheat a cookie sheet instead. The floor of my current oven is flat so I start the pizzas down there before moving them up to the rack so the bottom doesn't burn; you might just want to experiment with yours to see what works best.
Divide the dough into 2 large balls (for two large pizzas) or 4-6 small balls (for individual pizzas). Set out a sheet of parchment paper and dust it with fine cornmeal or semolina. (Or use an unrimmed cookie sheet.) Stretch the dough out little by little until you have a circle about 1/4 in. thick. I like to leave the edges a bit thicker so they puff up. Add your toppings and then slide the pizza into the oven-- if you made it on top of the parchment paper, just slide in the whole thing. If you made it on top of a cookie sheet, you can slide the whole thing in, or if you're daring you can use the sheet as a pizza peel to briskly slide the pizza onto the stone/cookie sheet that you already had preheating in the oven (make sure the pizza won't stick to the sheet before you slide it off; if it does just sprinkle a bit more cornmeal beneath). 
Bake until the bottom is crisp and the cheese has melted and begun to brown in patches. Add any fresh herbs, a sprinkle of olive oil, and a bit of salt. Eat immediately. Repeat with the rest of the dough.


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En Gringolandia decimos que la pizza es como el sexo: aún cuando está malo, sigue siendo bastante bueno. No estoy totalmente de acuerdo con eso; me parece que he comido mucha pizza mala de mala, y bueno del otro por suerte no tengo tantas anecdotas por contar. Y aunque si he comido mucha pizza que no me gustaba, no soy una de esas personas que cree que hay ciertas cosas que simplemente no van encima de una pizza. Cada cosa puede tener su gracia, bien hecha, en su momento (así también lo pienso de la otra cosa de que hablamos arriba).

Lo que he estado haciendo mucho últimamente cuando sé que no voy a tener mucho tiempo para almorzar es hacer la masa la noche anterior y meterla en la nevera. En la mañana la saco y la dejo afuera hasta el mediodia, cuando la estiro, la armo, y la meto al horno. Almuerzo caliente en 10 minutos. Mientras la pizza está en el horno se hace la ensalada.

Algunas variaciones que me gustan:

Clásica: Salsa de tomate, mozzarella, rodajas de tomate, pure de albaca (agregado después de sacarla del horno)
Argentina: Fugazetta (harta cebolla blanca, tomillo, mozzarella)
Colombiana: Salsa de tomate, mozzarella, platano maduro, pimenton rojo (morrón), cebolla larga (verdeo), cilantro (agregado después)
Californiana: Cebolla caramelizada, queso de cabra, rúcula (agregada después)

Algunos tips y opiniones no solicitados:

-Tajadas de queso no se derriten tan uniformemente como queso rallado. Ralla el queso en casa-- el queso rallado que uno compra en el supermercado tiene maizena para que no se pegue entonces no se derrite tan bien.
-Algunos ingredientes funcionan mejor precocinados-- verduras que demoran mucho para ablandarse, o que sueltan mucho liquido, dejandolas aguadas. Otros pueden tomar un sabor más intenso si los cocinas antes-- si salteas choclo o asas pimenton rojo, por ejemplo. Nunca he sido muy fan de las pizzas vegetarianas con grandes pedazos de verduras; terminas comiendo champiñones medio-cocidos y pimentones verdes aguados.
-Se puede hacer la salsa de tomate mas básica de solo pure de tomate, un diente de ajo, y una pizquita de ají. Usa menos salsa de la que piensas que necesitas-- echar demasiado haría que la masa se ague y disminuiría los otros sabores.
-Un poco de sal y aceite de oliva salpicado después de sacar la pizza del horno puede hacer una gran diferencia
-Pure de albahaca sabe buenisimo con todo. En la procesadora o aun en la licuadora, procesa 1/4 tasa de aceite de oliva con un diente de ajo. Agregale una pizca de sal y una tasa de albahaca y procesa bien. Untala debajo del queso para una pizza sin salsa de tomate, o salpicala encima después de sacar la pizza del horno.
-Hierbas frescas son buenisimas agregadas después de que la pizza esté sacada del horno: albahaca, cilantro, rúcula etc.
-A todo el mundo le gusta las fiestas de hacer pizzas (niños chiquitos, universitarios nerds, hipsters, artistas). Y hasta personas con un perjucio profundo en contra a la comida vegetariana jamás rechazarían una pizza de queso, tomate y albahaca. Haz la masa el día anterior, ten los toppings listos y decile a la gente que traiga cualquier cosa extra que le guste para sus pizzas. También, cerveza
-Se puede usar masa de pizza que sobre para hacer rollitos de canela o de cualquier otra cosa.
-Me están dando ganas de hacer esto

Masa de Pizza

Para la esponja (la pre-masa):
1.5 cucharita de levadura seca (fijate que está fresca; guardala en la nevera)
1.5 tazas de agua tibia
2 cucharadas de aceite de oliva
2.25 tazas de harina de trigo (tipo 000)

En un bol grande, mezcla todo hasta que la textura esté uniforme. Tapa el bol con una toalla de cocina y dejala doblar, una hora o dos. 

Para la masa:
2 o más tazas de harina
1 cucharada de sal

Revuelve la esponja y agregale la sal. Echale la harina, taza por taza, revolviendo. Agrega más harina poco a poco hasta que tengas una masa que puedes amasar pero que se pega un poquito. Amasala durante 5-10 minutos, hasta que tengas una masa suave y elástica que recupera su forma inmediatamente cuando la tocas. 
Agrega un poco de aceite de oliva a un bol grande y colocale la masa, revolviendola para que la parte de encima este untadita con el aceite. Puedes tapar la masa y dejarla a la temperatura ambiente hasta que doble (1-2 horas) y después usala inmediatamente, o puedes meterla a la nevera para usarla el día siguiente. Si estas planeando hacer la pizza el día siguiente, tapa el bol con plástico y guardalo en la nevera por la noche (asegurate que hay suficiente espacio para que la masa pueda doblar y no se caiga el plástico) Saca la masa de la nevera un par de horas antes de cuando estas pensando en hacer la pizza.
Precalienta el horno a la temperatura más alta posible-- en general los hornos domesticos solo suben hasta 250-300ºC, pero ponlo lo más alto posible y dejalo un buen rato para que esté lo mas caliente posible. Si tenes una piedra para pizza, colocala sobre la rejilla colocada en la parte de abajo del horno para precalentarla, o metele una bandeja de galletas. El piso de mi horno actual es plano entonces meto las pizzas allí al comienzo y después las subo a la rejilla para que no se quemen; de pronto quisieras experimentar con el tuyo para ver que funciona mejor. 
Divide la masa en 2 bolas grandes (para 2 pizzas grandes) o en 4-6 bolitas chiquitas (para pizzas individuales). Salpica una sabana de papel de horno (no papel mantecado) o una bandeja con un poco de harina de maíz fina o semolina. Estira la masa hasta que esté un poco más de .5 cm de gruesa. A mi me gusta dejar los lado un poco más gruesas para que se inflen. Echale los toppings y metela al horno.
Hornea hasta que el fondo esté crocante y el queso se haya derritido y empezado a broncear un poco. Echale hierbas frescas, salpicala con aceite de oliva y sal, y come inmediatemente. Repite con el resto de la masa.

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Beating the odds


Awhile ago, I was at El Das, the Colombian security agency, to renew my visa once again. A British guy was at the window, frustrated because there had been some kind of miscommunication about his visa. He was going to have to pay a 300,000 peso (about $160) fine if it wasn't resolved that same day as the next day he would already be in the country illegally. Amigo..., he kept staying in an angry tone. The agent on the other side of the window was getting pissed off, too. It's not our problem

The next week we went to Popayán, and Felipe's mom had to do some paperwork for their car, which is registered in Popayán for some ridiculous bureaucratic reason. The official in city hall told her that she needed to get a special stamp from the bank, where we had just came from after waiting in a long line to pay the taxes due on the car. -Go back to the bank? That will take all afternoon. Or you can buy it from that guy, he said, indicating a man leaning against the wall behind us. The stamps cost 6,000 pesos at the bank. -How much? 8,000. (~$1 difference) They had the current date and everything. Ok. Stamps bought. Back to the guy, who told her the paperwork was going to take 3 days, after which time we would have to come back to pick it up. We live in Cali, she said in her friendliest voice. ¿Cómo hacemos? meaning, how can we work together so I don't have to come back in 3 days? Wait here, he said. 30 minutes later we walked out of the building, documents in hand.

Hmm.

I don't want to speak for all Americans, but I would say my first reaction has always been to get annoyed, ask to talk to the supervisor, and speak strongly. We assume that if you make enough noise and are insistent enough, someone will care, if only to get you out of their hair. Let me tell you this: nobody here cares. Not the attendant, not the supervisor, not the supervisor's supervisor. If you are American or European they may even be enjoying telling you no as retribution for the way Latinos are often treated by our government agencies (not the most noble reaction but pretty damn understandable). 

There are two exceptions to this rule. 

To absolutely no one's surprise, if you have money and are willing to spread it around, you can probably make just about any problem go away. My Argentine students taught me, unasked, how to bribe police officers, much to their own amusement. If you ever get stopped, immediately slip 20 pesos ($5) under your license when you hand it to the officer. If he's kind of a jerk he'll tell you it's not enough. But, you know, they don't make very much money, they explained sympathetically. I've never been very good at bribing but I'm going to take a wild guess and assume that $5 is at the very low end of the spectrum.

But, surprisingly enough, what I have learned works almost as well is just being nice. Nice, polite, humble, and not going away when they tell you no. Sorry, those are the rules, there's nothing to be done. -I understand. ::look distressed, stay there:: Wait here. Comes back, Look, that's the policy, I can't help you. -I understand, I was just wondering if there's anything that can be done. Please. Thank you so much. ::stay there:: Wait here.

Repeat as necessary. Sometimes the person you're talking to won't help, but someone else will. Even if you've overstayed your visa. Even if you've screwed up paperwork and need it today instead of next week. Not that I personally have ever been in either of those situations. (Cough.)

I'm not saying it will work 100% of the time, and a lot of it really is luck of the draw. But I do think it greatly increases the odds of success.

*photo, Popayán's city hall. Kinda cool, right? The sculpture is by Édgar Negret, a well-known sculpture artist born in Popayán.

Monday, August 22, 2011

Qué comen los vegetarianos #6


Pinto beans with roasted squash and guajillo peppers, flour tortillas, pineapple, shredded cabbage with cilantro and lime, mashed avocado


Frijoles con zapallo asado y ajís guajillo, tortillas de harina de trigo, piña, repollo con cilantro y limon, aguacate aplastado

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Without the letdown



When I was in college and living in Santa Fe, I worked at a tea house that made legendary oatmeal. People would come in and order it with the same excitement normally reserved for steak and ice cream, We want two large bowls of the amazing oatmeal, please! After graduation, friends from college would talk about their plans for visiting Santa Fe, which often, if you can believe it, involved the oatmeal. The funny thing was no one actually knew what was in it. It was purple, for one, and though the gobs of maple syrup cream obviously contributed quite a bit to making it a much more luxurious oatmeal than normal, it clearly contained something other than just oats. And I worked there, so I of all people should have known. One day I asked the cook, a Mexican guy. What's in the oatmeal? -You know, sugar, butter. -What's the purple stuff? He shrugged. Oats?  Ok, or not.

Fast forward 4 years from graduation (which I cannot get my head around-- 4 years! What on earth have I been doing for the past 4 years?) and I picked up a bag of black sticky rice on a whim at a Chinese supermarket in Minneapolis. And then, on another whim (and after putzing around a bit on the internet), I decided to cook it up for breakfast, hot cereal style, along with some quick oats, milk, cream and brown sugar. 


Being a night owl through and through, I don't expect many breakthroughs before noon. But as I tasted the rice, turned purple from the milk, it all became crystal clear. This is the oatmeal!  I exclaimed to Felipe. ¿Qué? asked Felipe, astonished to hear something lively out of me before breakfast was even finished. A place I used to work at in Santa Fe...I jumped on the computer to see if they had a website to show him. 


And there on the website, there in our no-secrets internet age, on its about page, was the Famous Oatmeal recipe, in all its naked glory. You have got to be kidding me. It's on their website?? I felt like John Cusack in High Fidelity. Charlie's in the f@#$ing phone book?? 


As it turns out, the Famous Oatmeal contains not only black sticky rice but also steel cut oats and wheat berries (and a large amount of heavy cream, maple syrup and sugar). Quite an impressive combination, and surely one day I will have a go at the Official recipe. I like my version quite a lot, though, and it involves quite a few less pots. I do feel like calling it oatmeal is a bit of a misnomer. It does contain oats, but they aren't the principal ingredient and they aren't what makes the oatmeal unique. The name porridge may evoke some Oliver Twist-like associations for some people, but I've always liked it. It sounds warm and comforting and reminds me of my mom making me Cream of Wheat (which we called bear mush) in the mornings. Call it what you want; I call it a perfect breakfast that will keep you full for hours (black sticky rice is a whole grain). It's Charlie without the memory-killing letdown. Just the good stuff. And this is really good stuff.


Purple Porridge

1 c. black sticky rice
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 c. oats (I only have the quick-cooking kind here and they work well, though I would probably use rolled if I were in the states, which would entail a longer cooking time)
2 Tbsp. natural cane sugar (or brown sugar)
1/4 c. heavy cream*
1/4 c. milk* (I use whole)

Wash the rice-- I put the rice in a medium-sized pot, fill it halfway with water and swirl the rice around. Pour off any debris that floats to the top. Swirl the rice a couple of more times (add more water if necessary), pouring off debris, then drain the rice and place it back in the pot along with 3 cups of water. Add in the salt, cover the pot tightly, then cook over low heat for 45-55 min., until the rice is tender. Leave the pot, covered, overnight. (You can continue straight on to the next step if you like-- the rice doesn't need to sit overnight-- I just think that making the rice in the morning would mean an awfully long time to wait for breakfast.)
Add the oats and 1 cup of water to the rice, and bring the pot to a low simmer. The oats should turn creamy among the rice. (If you are using rolled oats, they will probably take 10-15 min. to cook. Quick-cooking oats are, by their definition, pretty quick-cooking, they only take a minute or so.) Stirring frequently, add in the sugar, cream and milk. If the mixture looks dry, add more milk. You want a creamy but not watery texture-- like rice pudding or oatmeal (because this is, indeed, really a hybrid of the two). Serve hot. Serves 4.

*or substitute 1/2 c. half and half for the milk and cream

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Everybody loves falafel. Everyone, that is, other than kid me. My parents used to bring home big bags of them from the amazing Sunrise Deli in San Francisco, and I could never muster up much enthusiasm. I wanted the pita and the hummus. And the carrot and cucumber spears and the hummus (my parents were hippies). And the things on the dinner table that weren't falafel. I know, all kids are supposed to like fried foods, but what can I say (my parents were hippies).

And then at a certain point, my relationship with falafel changed. At a certain point, it became very unlikely that the bag of falafel from Sunrise Deli made it home to the dinner table because it got devoured by those of us in the back seat of the car. And at a certain point, in college, I began to make them on my own.






My hands down favorite way of making falafel is based on a Gil Marks' recipe, which shouldn't surprise you too much if you're acquainted with his book Olive Trees and Honey.  Gil Marks is a rabbi whose cookbooks have been nominated for James Beard awards. He has cooked with bubbies from all over the world and has talked them into teaching him how to make things like yufka (a phyllo-like dough) by hand. The research process for him must be a riot.  

These falafel are packed with green herbs and spices, and though they are absolutely what you would identify as traditional falafel, they are considerably brighter in flavor. Other than challah, its the thing I've most often been asked to teach people how to make. Last week I made falafel for 50 people for a benefit concert, and I had to physically kick people out of the kitchen, snatching falafel out of their hands so that there would be any left over for the event. I also made a tahini sauce which I think of as being pretty essential to falafel. I like adding some yogurt in to give it additional tang and creaminess. Before my Israeli cousins jump all over me, I will say the following: 1. Tahini sauce is not made with yogurt in Israel. And just to get it out of the way: 2. Falafel are NEVER eaten with hummus in Israel. Or feta cheese. Or many of the condiments often offered in the states, which is not to take away from their deliciousness in my opinion, but my cousins would beg to differ. No matter; just make sure to make them, and eat them with any condiments you like; they are a thousand times easier to make than everyone thinks, and about a million times better than the box mix kind. Self-proclaimed carnivores will down them like nothing. Just make sure to make enough. The recipe below makes enough for 5 hungry people. Or any people, for that matter. As I said, everybody loves falafel. 

Falafel

1 lb. (~500 g.) chickpeas (dried)
½ c. cilantro, very finely chopped
½ c. parsley, very finely chopped
6-8 scallions, very finely chopped
6 cloves of garlic, finely chopped (optional)
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. baking powder
black pepper
2 tsp. salt
vegetable oil for frying

Leave the chickpeas to soak in cold water overnight. Drain them and grind them (still raw) in a food processor just until you have a paste. Add in the rest of the ingredients (except the oil) and pulse just to combine. Taste for salt. Form 1-in. balls (use a light hand and don't worry if they aren't perfect) and leave them for 15 min. to rest in the fridge. In a medium-sized pot heat several inches of oil to 350ºF. Fry the falafel in batches until golden brown. You can keep the falafel warm in a foil-covered dish in a low oven while you continue to fry the rest. Falafel are far and away at their best hot, but can be eaten at room temperature too. Just don't reheat them in the microwave as they will lose their texture; better to heat them in the oven. 
The batter keeps well-covered in the fridge for about a day (or you can save it already formed into balls); after that the baking powder loses it power.
Serve with tahini sauce, pita bread and vegetables-- I'm particularly fond of eating it with a chopped salad of cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes dressed with lemon and salt. Makes ~30 falafel.


Tahini Sauce

4 oz. sesame seeds
¼ c. olive oil
juice of a lemon
pinch salt
¼ c. of plain yogurt
water


Toast the sesame seeds in a small pan over low heat, stirring frequently so they don't burn, until they are golden but not brown (keep an eye out because they begin to darken very quickly once they start turning color). Grind them in a small food processor or spice mill until they turn into a paste (the oil from the seeds should help this happen). If after grinding the seeds as fine as possible, you are left with a fine powder instead of a paste, add the olive oil bit by bit, grinding well with each addition, until you have a paste that is smooth and thick. Add the lemon juice, grind it well again, and add a pinch of salt. Add in any olive oil you hadn't added in beforehand and grind well. Add in the yogurt if you like (though not traditional, it's awfully tasty). Begin to add in water, a tablespoon at a time, grinding with each addition, until you have a pourable sauce. Check for salt. Keep any leftovers in the fridge.

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Falafel

500 g de garbanzos (secos)
½ taza de cilantro, picado muy chiquito
½ taza de perejil, picado muy chiquito
1 tallo grande de cebolla larga (verdeo), la parte verde incluida, picado muy chiquito
6 dientes de ajo (opcional)
2 cucharitas de comino molido
2 cucharitas de semillas de cilantro molido (en Cali se consigue las semillas en La Galeria)
1 cucharita de polvo de hornear
pimienta negra
2 cucharitas de sal
aceite para freir

Deja los garbanzos en remojo desde la noche anterior. Escurrelos y muelelos (todavía crudos) en una procesadora (en tandas si tu procesadora es pequeña) hasta que estén bien molidos y justo estén covertiendose en una pasta. Si pudiste moler todo de una, agrega los demás ingredientes menos el aceite y pulsa hasta que todo esté incorporado. Si la procesadora es demasiado pequeña, transfiere todo el garbanzo molido a un recipiente grande y mezclalo bien con todos los demás ingredientes menos el aceite. 
Fijate que la mezcla este bien de sal. Forma bolitas de 3 cm. y dejalas reposar 15 minutos en la nevera. Caliente el aceite y frielas, sacandolas a una bandeja con papel de cocina cuando esten doraditas tirando hacia cafes. Puedes mantanerles caliente en un horno bajito tapadas con papel aluminio mientras terminas de freir las demás. Saben mejor calientes, aunque se pueden comer a temperatura  ambiente. Calentarlas en el microndas hace que pierdan su textura; mejor calentarlas en el horno.
Se puede guardar la masa, ya formada en bolitas si quieres, bien tapada en la nevera durante un dia; después el polvo de hornear pierde su poder.
Sirveles con salsa de tahini, pan arabe (pita) y verdura-- a mi me gusta comerlas con una ensalada picada de pepino, tomate y pimentón con aderezo de limón y sal. Rinde ~30 falafel.


Salsa de Tahini

¼ libra de ajonjoli (sesamo)
¼ taza de aceite de oliva
jugo de un limón
una pizca de sal
¼ taza de yogur natural (sin azúcar)
agua


Tuesta el ajonjoli en una sarten chiquita sobre fuego bajo, revolviendo para que no se queme, hasta que esté doradito pero no café. Muelelo en una procesadora chiquita (o un molino de especias) hasta que se vuelva una pasta (la grasa de la semilla debería causar esto). Si, después de haberlo molido totalmente, se queda como una harina finita, echale el aceite de oliva poco a poco, procesando bien cada vez, hasta que tengas una pasta suave y espesa. Echale el jugo de limón, procesalo bien, y echale una pizca de sal. Echale el aceite que quedó (si quedó), procesa bien, echale el yogur procesa otra vez (el yogur no es tradicional pero es una adición muy rica). Ahora, agregale agua, cucharada por cucharada, procesando con cada adición, hasta que tengas una salsa espesa.
Guardala en la nevera.